How do you keep your Life Log?
Sunday, July 27, 2008 at 9:09AM I can't surf as much as I used to because I live 2.5 hours from the closest beach. I end up going about once a month and I have trouble remembering everything I need to know between trips. So, I keep a "Surf Log" in Google Documents to track notes on my experiences and a "Surf Hack" as well to catalog gear changes and tips and tricks. It's a good reference on what to expect on the drive, what a particular beach is like that time of year, and how long/expensive the endeavor will be.
I look back in my log and can find times like when I went surfing a few days after my son was born. Reading what I wrote back then about him almost makes me cry. Keeping a log like this about something you are passionate about is a wonderful thing. I look forward to someday printing the whole thing out and letting my grandkids read it. Do you keep something similar?
SURF HACK:
Destination: Matagorda
Distance: 3 hours one way.
Fuel: 3/4 tank in Ford F150 round trip.
Eating: McDonalds for Coffee in Wharton on the way. Bay City has Subway and Whataburger.
Tips: The drive is quite pleasant. Two lane highway most of the way. Very poor rural areas, so make sure your car doesn't break down.
SURF LOG:
2008, July 27
Location: Matagorda
Notes: Drove alone to Matagorda beach. Surfed Hurricane Dolly leftovers (Cat. 2 storm hit Texas/Mexico border 3 days before.) Got up at 2:30 AM, Left at 3:30, was on the beach at 6:30. Driving at night was cool since I couldn't see anything and listened to iPod. Even though it was daylight, still too creeped out by the unknown and lack of surfers to go in that early.
Surfed from 7:45 to about 8:45 on inside sets on Emily's 7'8" egg board. First few waves were good. Tide was high and falling. Waves were smashing onto the beach shallows too hard and fast to get good rides on them.
Went back to truck and laid in shade of camper shell and napped for an hour.
Went back out on 9' longboard and decided to be brave and surf bigger waves way on the outside. Wasn't doing it earlier for fear of sharks. WOW, great waves out there. I put the 10' fin on the 9' board a few months ago and it still continues to blow me away how much better it surfs with that. SAW A SEA TURTLE pop it's head up and look at me! Bumped my hand into something big and soft underwater a little later. Scary! WTF was that?! Stean told me it was probably a body. Ha ha.
Surfed from 10 to 12:30 out there and was soon joined by a father/son combo that was really cool. Me became friends and chatted a bunch. We got pushed down the beach about half a mile, so he offered to walk to his truck, come back to where we were, and then load us up and drop me off at my truck. Gotta love Texas kindness in the surfzone.
AC was broken in truck. Got to drive home 3 hours in the middle of the afternoon in the Texas heat. Not terrible, but not fun, either.
Came back into the house with the stupidest grin on my face. I LOVE SURFING. Makes me feel on cloud 9 for at least a week. Somebody is a jerk to me? That's OK, I went surfing. :)
Tips - July is not too hot to surf. Just get there early. Take a nap in truck or on the beach in the shade of your truck after you get there. Water was wonderful feeling. Used lots of sunscreen and it worked great! If the wind is offshore, mosquitos will be hell, so bring bug spray. Keep up the yoga and pushups. Made paddling really easy.
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